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Date: 04 Jan 2007 16:27:12
From: robert -wanda fox
Subject: getting oil out question??
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i have a question on the amount of time you would spend washing the ball?
the ally i bowl at had spent quite a few months having the lanes
soaked"flooded" and the shell on my ball is quite literly oil soaked and no
reaction left,i have been instructed to soak the ball in extremely hot dish
liquid water for about 15 to 20 minutes to open the pores,get the surface
oil out,i was told to boil water and add to the water in the bucket,i did
this and the ball did retain more reaction,question is-is this the best
method to do this and second question is-wouldn't the ball just clog up
again after a few games if there is excessive oil on the lanes again cutting
reaction and performance down,these lanes are quite oily and i'm thinking
that i would have to do this routine after every 6 or so games to keep the
ball at least halfway reactive, yes or no?? i use two balls (ebonite
illusion,mostlt keep polished, and a few amf xs"s. thanks
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Date: 06 Jan 2007 23:28:48
From: PromptJock
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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> I take a medium size plastic bag and place my bowling ball in the
> plastic ball with the the thumb and finger holes down. I fill the bag
> with CAT LITTER and completely cover the ball.
What TYPE of cat litter do you use?
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Date: 08 Jan 2007 10:24:59
From: John Sowell
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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any kind of fine sand like cat litter will do. I will get you the brand
name i use and email it later today.
http://community.webtv.net/GALO/NORTHSANDIEGOCOUNTY
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Date: 06 Jan 2007 23:08:55
From: John Sowell
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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I have been doing the following for a few years with very good results:
I take a medium size plastic bag and place my bowling ball in the
plastic ball with the the thumb and finger holes down. I fill the bag
with CAT LITTER and completely cover the ball. I let the ball sit in
cat litter for 48 hours and then take it out. Try this method with
balls with a lot of surface. Balls with 1,500 grit or more should not
be done in this manner.
A Shortcut Way:
Take GOJO(a hand pumice cleaner) and place some on a wet paper towel and
rub around the ball and you will notice how dark the wet paper towel
becomes from the oil being extracted from the ball. After cleaning the
ball in a circular motion for about 1 minute, take a dry paper towel and
dry the ball out. Again, only balls with a lot of surface should be
cleaned in this manner. 1500 grit balls and above should be cleaned
with the products sold at the bowling pro shop.
These methods will bring your ball back to life but again, you should
never allow the oil to stay on the ball and your equipment will last
longer if you learn to clean the balls every 30 games or so.
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Date: 06 Jan 2007 00:25:00
From: PromptJock
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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> My method is :
>
> - using an 50=B0C oven
122=B0F - not too bad a temperature. :) I also use my oven at its'
lowest temperature.
> - I let the ball during 5 min.
That's pretty short - try doing it 10-15 min. instead?
> - Then cleaning the ball with + several drops of wahing up liquid
> - Wiping the ball with a towel.
I use "Formula 409" - spray it on, quickly wipe it off. If I don't
have "409", I use "Windex" (with "Ammonia-D"!) in its' place. Similar
cleaning results with either spray cleaner. :)
> - I redo that 6 times.
Same here or when the ball actually stops sweating "profusely" (usually
after the 4th or 5th cycle). :)
I then let my ball sit out in the kitchen and cool overnight before I
use it. Haven't had any noticeable coverstock, etc. problems and its'
"lane reaction" is notoceably better afterwards. :)
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Date: 06 Jan 2007 00:18:20
From: PromptJock
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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> The method of immersing the ball in hot water suprises me!! I have
> always laboured under the impression that you should not get water
> inside the finger holes, let alone soak them as suggested here, as you
> risk damaging the ball!
The only way the ball cound get damaged with water is if the ** CORE
MATERIAL ** was at all porous and/or anhydrous. That's really not the
case with today's balls. Therefore, using hot water to extract the oil
is PERFECTLY SAFE as many people use their AUTOMATIC DISHWASHERS to do
the job. Of course, they also remove the ball after the final rinse
cycle so it can air-dry - the dishwasher heated dry cycle CAN damage
the ball!
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Date: 05 Jan 2007 00:52:29
From: Lupideloop
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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The method of immersing the ball in hot water suprises me!! I have
always laboured under the impression that you should not get water
inside the finger holes, let alone soak them as suggested here, as you
risk damaging the ball!
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Date: 05 Jan 2007 17:58:46
From: Philippe
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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I totally agree with you.
My method is :
- using an 50°C oven
- I let the ball during 5 min.
- Then cleaning the ball with + several drops of wahing up liquid
- Wiping the ball with a towel.
- I redo that 6 times.
Philippe
"Lupideloop" <lupideloop@gmail.com > a écrit dans le message de news:
1167987148.947865.15610@i15g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> The method of immersing the ball in hot water suprises me!! I have
> always laboured under the impression that you should not get water
> inside the finger holes, let alone soak them as suggested here, as you
> risk damaging the ball!
>
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Date: 04 Jan 2007 20:10:45
From: PromptJock
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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> i have a question on the amount of time you would spend washing the ball?
> the ally i bowl at had spent quite a few months having the lanes
> soaked"flooded" and the shell on my ball is quite literly oil soaked and no
> reaction left,i have been instructed to soak the ball in extremely hot dish
> liquid water for about 15 to 20 minutes to open the pores,get the surface
> oil out,i was told to boil water and add to the water in the bucket,i did
> this and the ball did retain more reaction,question is-is this the best
> method to do this and second question is-wouldn't the ball just clog up
> again after a few games if there is excessive oil on the lanes again cutting
> reaction and performance down,these lanes are quite oily and i'm thinking
> that i would have to do this routine after every 6 or so games to keep the
> ball at least halfway reactive, yes or no?? i use two balls (ebonite
> illusion,mostlt keep polished, and a few amf xs"s. thanks
There are many "specific" ball cleaners on the market. The first
replier suggested one that is probably a good one. :)
I personally use "Formula 409" ** AFTER ** every league/practice/fun
session to clean the coverstocks of my balls (it does a WONDERFUL
job!). You can use "Windex" (with "Ammonia-D" ;) ) ** DURING LEAGUE
SESSIONS ** to clean off any "excess" oil the ball picks up (not "409"
- it's not an "approved DURING league/tournament competition" cleaner).
BE CAREFUL THOUGH: make sure the ball is TOTALLY DRY before you throw
the next shot or any residual "Windex" will destroy the remaining oil
layer on the lane where the ball rolls. You can also use Isopropyl
Rubbing Alcohol (I suggest the "needle-grade" 90%+ stuff!) during the
league session (it's another "approved" cleaner), but just be careful
of the "atmosphere" it generates when it evaporates. Again, make sure
the ball is TOTALLY DRY of alcohol after cleaning before you deliver
it.
I don't know what kind of towel you use to wipe your ball, but I find
the "microfiber" ones to be EXCELLENT in removing surface oil. If you
don't have one (or three!) of these towels, a SMALL plush cotton dish
towel or washcloth will work (have a couple). Just remember to
REGULARLY WASH THE TOWELS and NEVER, EVER allow any kind of "fabric
softener" (i.e. "Bounce" dryer sheets) to contact the towel material.
"Fabric softeners" actually "clog" the fibers in the towels, severely
impeding their oil-absorbing capabilities AND actually cause the
"softened" towel to deposit the "softener" back onto the coverstock,
Which Is Not A Good Thing!
As for actually REMOVING ABSORBED OIL: your method is a very good one -
just make sure the water has a small amount of LIQUID DETERGENT (i.e.
"Dove for dishes") to break down the oil as it oozes out of the
coverstock. Replace the water after 10-15 min with fresh HOT water
(doesn't necessarily have to be boiling - straight from the hot water
tap will do) and more liquid soap, wiping the ball off between changes.
You may have to do this 5 or more times (depending on how much oil is
absorbed) to ensure you get most (if not all, if you;re lucky!) of the
oil out. Wipe off the ball after the last soak and let it sit
overnight to air-dry and cool off before you use it again. There are
other methods of "oil extraction" around and I won't go into any of
them as a flame War might erupt (smile!). Sufficeth to type, use the
method(s) that work best FOR YOU! :)
With "typical" bowling usage (1-3 leagues/week and interim practice
sessions), you'll probably only need to de-oil the ball every 5-6
months (i.e. twice a season - beginning, midway, and end). If you bowl
more than that, do it every 3-4 months OR until you can tangibly notice
the cover looking/feeling "slick" and the (clean and dry!) towel
doesn't seem to remove the oil as well as it used to.
That's my spiel on the subject. I hope it helps. :)
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Date: 04 Jan 2007 16:55:09
From: Shawn Robertson
Subject: Re: getting oil out question??
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trax ball cleaner
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